Limitations of unactivated Windows, in some detail??


Fishmill

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Windows 10 Pro
I may be rebuilding soon. New board, new CPU, new RAM. Everything else carried over from current 9 year old PC with updated drives.

I am now on Win 10 Pro full retail fully legit and activated. No issues. Single license.

New machine will eventually go on Win 11 Pro, presumably at no cost.

For several reasons, I'd like to shake down the new hardware for a couple of days before any activation attempts......breadboarding, eliminating DOA, gaining BIOS familiarity, Memtest, installing Office 2010, etc.

I might do this shaking down on 10 or 11, most likely using a fresh version via Media Creation Tool USB. But I'd expect to be on 11 Pro within a few days........and activated.

I know "unactivated" Windows has some limitations, but I'm wondering how those limitations might apply to this 2 or 3 day shakedown period.

Specifically, I get conflicting info on what I can or cannot do with Office 2010 Word and Excel if Windows is NOT activated. This is a critical point.

Under certain circumstances, I can only view Word/Excel files; no editing and re-saving?

No limitations at all IF Office itself is activated?

No limitations even if Office is NOT activated?

Office can't be installed if Windows is NOT activated?

Office can't be activated if Window is NOT activated?

I don't care about watermarks and other minor annoyances since the unactivated state would be temporary and would not affect my first few days.

I'd appreciate advice. I'm sure some of you would just say "go ahead, install and activate 11 immediately. Worry about issues later". I'm just quite antsy about going that far with possibly shaky new hardware. I expect several days of app install and configuration after any Windows activation and I hope to avoid hardware failures on say day 13 after that. I acknowledge that is mostly unknowable and random.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Fishmill Special
I don’t see any benifits of not just connecting to your Microsoft Account and letting your account digitally record your Windows license?

Or do you use a local account? In which case I know nothing.

And no sorry, I am not aware of any restrictions.

Maybe take a look at this?

 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 Build 22631.4249
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Sin-built
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-4770K CPU @ 3.50GHz (4th Gen?)
    Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Maximus VI Formula
    Memory
    32.0 GB of I forget and the box is in storage.
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte nVidia GeForce GTX 1660 Super OC 6GB
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    4 x LG 23MP75 - 2 x 24MK430H-B - 1 x Wacom Pro 22" Tablet
    Screen Resolution
    All over the place
    Hard Drives
    Too many to list.
    OS on Samsung 1TB 870 QVO SATA
    PSU
    Silverstone 1500
    Case
    NZXT Phantom 820 Full-Tower Case
    Cooling
    Noctua NH-D15 Elite Class Dual Tower CPU Cooler / 6 x EziDIY 120mm / 2 x Corsair 140mm somethings / 1 x 140mm Thermaltake something / 2 x 200mm Corsair.
    Keyboard
    Corsair K95 / Logitech diNovo Edge Wireless
    Mouse
    Logitech G402 / G502 / Mx Masters / MX Air Cordless
    Internet Speed
    100/40Mbps
    Browser
    All sorts
    Antivirus
    Kaspersky Premium
    Other Info
    I’m on a horse.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 Build: 22631.4249
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    LENOVO Yoga 7i EVO OLED 14" Touchscreen i5 12 Core 16GB/512GB
    CPU
    Intel Core 12th Gen i5-1240P Processor (1.7 - 4.4GHz)
    Memory
    16GB LPDDR5 RAM
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel Iris Xe Graphics Processor
    Sound Card
    Optimized with Dolby Atmos®
    Screen Resolution
    QHD 2880 x 1800 OLED
    Hard Drives
    M.2 512GB
    Antivirus
    Defender / Malwarebytes
    Other Info
    …still on a horse.
I do have a Microsoft account. So far as I know.

I cannot remember the last time I had to use it. I don't use the "store" and have no obvious reason to ever use a Microsoft account. I don't miss whatever I'm missing. No "smartphones". No "apps", etc.

I have no use for it per se. I suppose you'd call me a local account person.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Fishmill Special
What state is your PC in at the moment? Can you check something?


Does it say you’re activated with a digital license?
You can connect to your local account during install by using your Microsoft Account email, then once you are upgraded and it says

Windows 11 Pro.

Windows is activated with a digital license linked to your Microsoft account.

You can then switch to a local account if you like:

 
Last edited:

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 Build 22631.4249
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Sin-built
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-4770K CPU @ 3.50GHz (4th Gen?)
    Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Maximus VI Formula
    Memory
    32.0 GB of I forget and the box is in storage.
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte nVidia GeForce GTX 1660 Super OC 6GB
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    4 x LG 23MP75 - 2 x 24MK430H-B - 1 x Wacom Pro 22" Tablet
    Screen Resolution
    All over the place
    Hard Drives
    Too many to list.
    OS on Samsung 1TB 870 QVO SATA
    PSU
    Silverstone 1500
    Case
    NZXT Phantom 820 Full-Tower Case
    Cooling
    Noctua NH-D15 Elite Class Dual Tower CPU Cooler / 6 x EziDIY 120mm / 2 x Corsair 140mm somethings / 1 x 140mm Thermaltake something / 2 x 200mm Corsair.
    Keyboard
    Corsair K95 / Logitech diNovo Edge Wireless
    Mouse
    Logitech G402 / G502 / Mx Masters / MX Air Cordless
    Internet Speed
    100/40Mbps
    Browser
    All sorts
    Antivirus
    Kaspersky Premium
    Other Info
    I’m on a horse.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 Build: 22631.4249
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    LENOVO Yoga 7i EVO OLED 14" Touchscreen i5 12 Core 16GB/512GB
    CPU
    Intel Core 12th Gen i5-1240P Processor (1.7 - 4.4GHz)
    Memory
    16GB LPDDR5 RAM
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel Iris Xe Graphics Processor
    Sound Card
    Optimized with Dolby Atmos®
    Screen Resolution
    QHD 2880 x 1800 OLED
    Hard Drives
    M.2 512GB
    Antivirus
    Defender / Malwarebytes
    Other Info
    …still on a horse.
Windows 10 Pro.

Windows is activated with a digital license linked to your Microsoft account.

As I expected. It's said that for years.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Fishmill Special
Then my edited reply just above your last post is relevant. Might need to refresh the page to see my edit (y)
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 Build 22631.4249
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Sin-built
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-4770K CPU @ 3.50GHz (4th Gen?)
    Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Maximus VI Formula
    Memory
    32.0 GB of I forget and the box is in storage.
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte nVidia GeForce GTX 1660 Super OC 6GB
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    4 x LG 23MP75 - 2 x 24MK430H-B - 1 x Wacom Pro 22" Tablet
    Screen Resolution
    All over the place
    Hard Drives
    Too many to list.
    OS on Samsung 1TB 870 QVO SATA
    PSU
    Silverstone 1500
    Case
    NZXT Phantom 820 Full-Tower Case
    Cooling
    Noctua NH-D15 Elite Class Dual Tower CPU Cooler / 6 x EziDIY 120mm / 2 x Corsair 140mm somethings / 1 x 140mm Thermaltake something / 2 x 200mm Corsair.
    Keyboard
    Corsair K95 / Logitech diNovo Edge Wireless
    Mouse
    Logitech G402 / G502 / Mx Masters / MX Air Cordless
    Internet Speed
    100/40Mbps
    Browser
    All sorts
    Antivirus
    Kaspersky Premium
    Other Info
    I’m on a horse.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 Build: 22631.4249
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    LENOVO Yoga 7i EVO OLED 14" Touchscreen i5 12 Core 16GB/512GB
    CPU
    Intel Core 12th Gen i5-1240P Processor (1.7 - 4.4GHz)
    Memory
    16GB LPDDR5 RAM
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel Iris Xe Graphics Processor
    Sound Card
    Optimized with Dolby Atmos®
    Screen Resolution
    QHD 2880 x 1800 OLED
    Hard Drives
    M.2 512GB
    Antivirus
    Defender / Malwarebytes
    Other Info
    …still on a horse.
Once Windows 10 or 11 is updated licensing data is entered into Microsoft servers.

This enables the movement from one version to the other (upgrade then go back: clean install downgrade, etc.)

What advantages were you looking for by not activating?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-4800MQ CPU @ 2.70GHz
    Motherboard
    Product : 190A Version : KBC Version 94.56
    Memory
    16 GB Total: Manufacturer : Samsung MemoryType : DDR3 FormFactor : SODIMM Capacity : 8GB Speed : 1600
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA Quadro K3100M; Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600
    Sound Card
    IDT High Definition Audio CODEC; PNP Device ID HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_111D&DEV_76E0
    Hard Drives
    Model Hitachi HTS727575A9E364
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Defender
    Other Info
    Mobile Workstation

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Intel
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-14900K
    Motherboard
    GIGABYTE Z790 AORUS Elite X WIFI7
    Memory
    Corsair 128GB (4x32GB) DDR5 5600MT/S CL40 Memory Kit
    Graphics Card(s)
    Onboard
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    43 inch 4k
    Screen Resolution
    2k (2560 x 1440)
    Hard Drives
    WD_BLACK 1TB NVMe SSD with Heatsink 7300 mb/s
    PSU
    MEG Ai1300P PCIE 5 & ATX 3.0 PSU 1300 watts
    Case
    Phanteks (PH-ES614PTG_BK) Enthoo Pro ATX , Tempered Glass, Integrated RGB Lighting
    Cooling
    ENERMAX LIQMAXFLO 360mm A-RGB AIO CPU Liquid Cooler
    Keyboard
    Wireless logitech
    Mouse
    Wireless logitech
Windows can be run unactivated with minimal but annoying impact (primarily you cannot personalise pc).

However MS Office is different. It is activated INDEPENDENTLY of Windows.
If MS Office is not activated, it is pretty useless as you cannot save files etc.

MS Office does not care if Windows is activated or not.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro + Win11 Canary VM.
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    ASUS Zenbook 14
    CPU
    I9 13th gen i9-13900H 2.60 GHZ
    Motherboard
    Yep, Laptop has one.
    Memory
    16 GB soldered
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated Intel Iris XE
    Sound Card
    Realtek built in
    Monitor(s) Displays
    laptop OLED screen
    Screen Resolution
    2880x1800 touchscreen
    Hard Drives
    1 TB NVME SSD (only weakness is only one slot)
    PSU
    Internal + 65W thunderbolt USB4 charger
    Case
    Yep, got one
    Cooling
    Stella Artois (UK pint cans - 568 ml) - extra cost.
    Keyboard
    Built in UK keybd
    Mouse
    Bluetooth , wireless dongled, wired
    Internet Speed
    900 mbs (ethernet), wifi 6 typical 350-450 mb/s both up and down
    Browser
    Edge
    Antivirus
    Defender
    Other Info
    TPM 2.0, 2xUSB4 thunderbolt, 1xUsb3 (usb a), 1xUsb-c, hdmi out, 3.5 mm audio out/in combo, ASUS backlit trackpad (inc. switchable number pad)

    Macrium Reflect Home V8
    Office 365 Family (6 users each 1TB onedrive space)
    Hyper-V (a vm runs almost as fast as my older laptop)
Once Windows 10 or 11 is updated licensing data is entered into Microsoft servers.

This enables the movement from one version to the other (upgrade then go back: clean install downgrade, etc.)

What advantages were you looking for by not activating?
I'm aware of the MS server situation.

I'd rather be frustrated once than twice....therefore I'd prefer to go through activation once rather than twice. Twice might happen if I have early hardware failures after a first activation and have to replace the failed stuff.

At my highly advanced age, it is increasingly important to avoid frustration. I'm only trying to reduce the likelihood for me personally in my personal circumstances. No more and no less.

Call that a natural part of aging or call it foolish or call it over-thinking or call it a personality disorder out of that DSM on your bookshelf. Frustration avoidance is a fact for me. Full stop. If Microcenter were nearby, they might have an assembly customer.

The last time I built (2016), I just threw the stuff into the case like most of you do. I had no significant issues.

Breadboarding is a perhaps silly attempt to reduce frustration and avoid possibly having to pull parts out of a case. I have never breadboarded before, but I am simple-minded enough to think it might be advantageous. In my circumstances.

I haven't bought a pre-built PC in close to 30 years. It's a balancing act between the convenience of pre-built and my (so far) continued insistence on controlling the individual parts.

This will almost certainly be my final PC regardless. I've been postponing a rebuild for years. Current PC is performing well with no issues, speed or otherwise. But it has around 40,000 hours on the major parts.

If anyone has any answers to the specific questions I listed in my original post, I'm all ears. I've seen conflicting opinions online as mentioned.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Fishmill Special
I DO recommend always buying a KEY and getting your software activated.

For the curious . . . or those that want to be informed . . .
Are you paying too much for Windows? (LinusTechTips)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJkRd9py5mA

Microsoft Windows 11 Professional Digital License OEM – Online Activation


MICROSOFT OFFICE
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2 (OS Build 26100.3037)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Precision Mobile Workstation
    CPU
    Intel(R) Xeon(R) CPU E3-1535M v5 @ 2.90 Max Turbo 3.80
    Motherboard
    00V5FJ
    Memory
    64GB DDR4 ECC (Error-Correcting Code memory)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA Quadro M2000M 4GB GDDR5 & Intel(R) HD Graphics P530
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    15.6" 4K UltraHD
    Screen Resolution
    3840x2160
    Hard Drives
    2TB Crucial NVMe & 2TB Seagate SATA
    PSU
    Dell 180W 19.5V-9.23A
    Mouse
    Logitech G703
    Internet Speed
    WIFI: Intel(R) Dual Band Wireless-AC 8260
    Browser
    Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender/Microsoft Security + additional Anti Spyware, Anti Malware, etc.
    Other Info
    Thunderbolt 3
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Precision Workstation T5610
    CPU
    Dual Intel(R) Xeon(R)
    Memory
    64GB ECC
I'm aware of the MS server situation.

I'd rather be frustrated once than twice....therefore I'd prefer to go through activation once rather than twice. Twice might happen if I have early hardware failures after a first activation and have to replace the failed stuff.

At my highly advanced age, it is increasingly important to avoid frustration. I'm only trying to reduce the likelihood for me personally in my personal circumstances. No more and no less.

Call that a natural part of aging or call it foolish or call it over-thinking or call it a personality disorder out of that DSM on your bookshelf. Frustration avoidance is a fact for me. Full stop. If Microcenter were nearby, they might have an assembly customer.

The last time I built (2016), I just threw the stuff into the case like most of you do. I had no significant issues.

Breadboarding is a perhaps silly attempt to reduce frustration and avoid possibly having to pull parts out of a case. I have never breadboarded before, but I am simple-minded enough to think it might be advantageous. In my circumstances.

I haven't bought a pre-built PC in close to 30 years. It's a balancing act between the convenience of pre-built and my (so far) continued insistence on controlling the individual parts.

This will almost certainly be my final PC regardless. I've been postponing a rebuild for years. Current PC is performing well with no issues, speed or otherwise. But it has around 40,000 hours on the major parts.

If anyone has any answers to the specific questions I listed in my original post, I'm all ears. I've seen conflicting opinions online as mentioned.

It’s of course OK for you to want to do things your own way. Especially if it is to avoid frustrations and high blood pressure.

That link I provided in my first post should detail the disadvantages of waiting, but I wouldn’t worry about any of them, especially if it’s only for a few days (y) 🙏
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 Build 22631.4249
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Sin-built
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-4770K CPU @ 3.50GHz (4th Gen?)
    Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Maximus VI Formula
    Memory
    32.0 GB of I forget and the box is in storage.
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte nVidia GeForce GTX 1660 Super OC 6GB
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    4 x LG 23MP75 - 2 x 24MK430H-B - 1 x Wacom Pro 22" Tablet
    Screen Resolution
    All over the place
    Hard Drives
    Too many to list.
    OS on Samsung 1TB 870 QVO SATA
    PSU
    Silverstone 1500
    Case
    NZXT Phantom 820 Full-Tower Case
    Cooling
    Noctua NH-D15 Elite Class Dual Tower CPU Cooler / 6 x EziDIY 120mm / 2 x Corsair 140mm somethings / 1 x 140mm Thermaltake something / 2 x 200mm Corsair.
    Keyboard
    Corsair K95 / Logitech diNovo Edge Wireless
    Mouse
    Logitech G402 / G502 / Mx Masters / MX Air Cordless
    Internet Speed
    100/40Mbps
    Browser
    All sorts
    Antivirus
    Kaspersky Premium
    Other Info
    I’m on a horse.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 Build: 22631.4249
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    LENOVO Yoga 7i EVO OLED 14" Touchscreen i5 12 Core 16GB/512GB
    CPU
    Intel Core 12th Gen i5-1240P Processor (1.7 - 4.4GHz)
    Memory
    16GB LPDDR5 RAM
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel Iris Xe Graphics Processor
    Sound Card
    Optimized with Dolby Atmos®
    Screen Resolution
    QHD 2880 x 1800 OLED
    Hard Drives
    M.2 512GB
    Antivirus
    Defender / Malwarebytes
    Other Info
    …still on a horse.
This will almost certainly be my final PC regardless. I've been postponing a rebuild for years. Current PC is performing well with no issues, speed or otherwise. But it has around 40,000 hours on the major parts.

Me too. This is probably my last pc build. There seems to be a lot of us here. :-)

It makes sense though. Going through 95, 98, 2k, xp, 7, 10, then by 11 I bet a lot of people are thinking they've had enough.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Intel
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-14900K
    Motherboard
    GIGABYTE Z790 AORUS Elite X WIFI7
    Memory
    Corsair 128GB (4x32GB) DDR5 5600MT/S CL40 Memory Kit
    Graphics Card(s)
    Onboard
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    43 inch 4k
    Screen Resolution
    2k (2560 x 1440)
    Hard Drives
    WD_BLACK 1TB NVMe SSD with Heatsink 7300 mb/s
    PSU
    MEG Ai1300P PCIE 5 & ATX 3.0 PSU 1300 watts
    Case
    Phanteks (PH-ES614PTG_BK) Enthoo Pro ATX , Tempered Glass, Integrated RGB Lighting
    Cooling
    ENERMAX LIQMAXFLO 360mm A-RGB AIO CPU Liquid Cooler
    Keyboard
    Wireless logitech
    Mouse
    Wireless logitech
Me too. This is probably my last pc build. There seems to be a lot of us here. :-)

It makes sense though. Going through 95, 98, 2k, xp, 7, 10, then by 11 I bet a lot of people are thinking they've had enough.

Any complaints about that Aorus board?

I'm strongly considering an Aorus B860M on a Core Ultra 265K. My case won't accept full ATX and I don't need full ATX or Z series.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Fishmill Special
Any complaints about that Aorus board?

I'm strongly considering an Aorus B860M on a Core Ultra 265K. My case won't accept full ATX and I don't need full ATX or Z series.

No complaints at all. My win7 build in 2011 was a gigabyte Z68 and since it's been a good board for all those years I decided to stick with gigabyte. GA-Z68MA-D2H-B3 (rev. 1.0) Overview | Motherboard - GIGABYTE Global

I like everything about my system, except the power supply. Any little blip in the power and it reboots. But I need a good UPS anyway so I can live with it but don't recommend MSI power supplies for that reason.

I especially like my case. I was very impressed with the thought and engineering that went into it. The only thing I don't like is the power button is on top, and since the cats like to lay on top of the radiator because it's warm, I had to set the button to "do nothing".
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Intel
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-14900K
    Motherboard
    GIGABYTE Z790 AORUS Elite X WIFI7
    Memory
    Corsair 128GB (4x32GB) DDR5 5600MT/S CL40 Memory Kit
    Graphics Card(s)
    Onboard
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    43 inch 4k
    Screen Resolution
    2k (2560 x 1440)
    Hard Drives
    WD_BLACK 1TB NVMe SSD with Heatsink 7300 mb/s
    PSU
    MEG Ai1300P PCIE 5 & ATX 3.0 PSU 1300 watts
    Case
    Phanteks (PH-ES614PTG_BK) Enthoo Pro ATX , Tempered Glass, Integrated RGB Lighting
    Cooling
    ENERMAX LIQMAXFLO 360mm A-RGB AIO CPU Liquid Cooler
    Keyboard
    Wireless logitech
    Mouse
    Wireless logitech
I may be rebuilding soon. New board, new CPU, new RAM. Everything else carried over from current 9 year old PC with updated drives.

I am now on Win 10 Pro full retail fully legit and activated. No issues. Single license.

New machine will eventually go on Win 11 Pro, presumably at no cost.

For several reasons, I'd like to shake down the new hardware for a couple of days before any activation attempts......breadboarding, eliminating DOA, gaining BIOS familiarity, Memtest, installing Office 2010, etc.

I might do this shaking down on 10 or 11, most likely using a fresh version via Media Creation Tool USB. But I'd expect to be on 11 Pro within a few days........and activated.

I know "unactivated" Windows has some limitations, but I'm wondering how those limitations might apply to this 2 or 3 day shakedown period.

Specifically, I get conflicting info on what I can or cannot do with Office 2010 Word and Excel if Windows is NOT activated. This is a critical point.

Under certain circumstances, I can only view Word/Excel files; no editing and re-saving?

No limitations at all IF Office itself is activated?

No limitations even if Office is NOT activated?

Office can't be installed if Windows is NOT activated?

Office can't be activated if Window is NOT activated?

I don't care about watermarks and other minor annoyances since the unactivated state would be temporary and would not affect my first few days.

I'd appreciate advice. I'm sure some of you would just say "go ahead, install and activate 11 immediately. Worry about issues later". I'm just quite antsy about going that far with possibly shaky new hardware. I expect several days of app install and configuration after any Windows activation and I hope to avoid hardware failures on say day 13 after that. I acknowledge that is mostly unknowable and random.
You're sweating the details. Use Rufus to clean out the garbage, install Win 11 and if you have another drive with a recent version of Windows on it you have the option of letting Microsoft scan your PC for the key and transfer the key to your Win 11. If you don't like that option you don't have to use it. You can always buy a 20 dollar "grey key" and it will work just as well. Technically, this is legal. I mean, it's a lousy 20 bucks (sometimes less). If you're not comfortable with this then go ROGUE. Your OS won't be legit but it's a way to get out of paying the pittance it costs to stay genuine. No free lunch. Everything has a price.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K (octocore) / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers. Not a fan of liquid cooling.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    I own too many laptops: A Dell touch screen with Windows 11 and 6 others (not counting the other four laptops I bought for this household.) Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
I like everything about my system, except the power supply. Any little blip in the power and it reboots. But I need a good UPS anyway so I can live with it but don't recommend MSI power supplies for that reason.
A good UPS can fix that — especially a sine wave UPS. They're fairly inexpensive these days. I can shoot you a link if you wish.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K (octocore) / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers. Not a fan of liquid cooling.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    I own too many laptops: A Dell touch screen with Windows 11 and 6 others (not counting the other four laptops I bought for this household.) Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
You can always buy a 20 dollar "grey key" and it will work just as well.

What's a grey key?

A good UPS can fix that — especially a sine wave UPS. They're fairly inexpensive these days. I can shoot you a link if you wish.

I wanted to get a nice one but just haven't started the long process of researching. The most important thing is to be able to record the condition of the electrical supply so when something like swelling batteries happens again I have some evidence to show the electric company.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Intel
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-14900K
    Motherboard
    GIGABYTE Z790 AORUS Elite X WIFI7
    Memory
    Corsair 128GB (4x32GB) DDR5 5600MT/S CL40 Memory Kit
    Graphics Card(s)
    Onboard
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    43 inch 4k
    Screen Resolution
    2k (2560 x 1440)
    Hard Drives
    WD_BLACK 1TB NVMe SSD with Heatsink 7300 mb/s
    PSU
    MEG Ai1300P PCIE 5 & ATX 3.0 PSU 1300 watts
    Case
    Phanteks (PH-ES614PTG_BK) Enthoo Pro ATX , Tempered Glass, Integrated RGB Lighting
    Cooling
    ENERMAX LIQMAXFLO 360mm A-RGB AIO CPU Liquid Cooler
    Keyboard
    Wireless logitech
    Mouse
    Wireless logitech

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Intel
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-14900K
    Motherboard
    GIGABYTE Z790 AORUS Elite X WIFI7
    Memory
    Corsair 128GB (4x32GB) DDR5 5600MT/S CL40 Memory Kit
    Graphics Card(s)
    Onboard
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    43 inch 4k
    Screen Resolution
    2k (2560 x 1440)
    Hard Drives
    WD_BLACK 1TB NVMe SSD with Heatsink 7300 mb/s
    PSU
    MEG Ai1300P PCIE 5 & ATX 3.0 PSU 1300 watts
    Case
    Phanteks (PH-ES614PTG_BK) Enthoo Pro ATX , Tempered Glass, Integrated RGB Lighting
    Cooling
    ENERMAX LIQMAXFLO 360mm A-RGB AIO CPU Liquid Cooler
    Keyboard
    Wireless logitech
    Mouse
    Wireless logitech
What's a grey key?



I wanted to get a nice one but just haven't started the long process of researching. The most important thing is to be able to record the condition of the electrical supply so when something like swelling batteries happens again I have some evidence to show the electric company.
A grey key is a generic term for a license key that isn't precisely legitimate but isn't exactly illegal either. It's an old term but I'm an old guy so. . .

A good UPS retailer will provide adequate instruction on how to replace the batteries. A camera is all that is needed to record the date and illustrate the condition of a battery, as well as serial # etc.

Sine Wave UPS
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K (octocore) / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers. Not a fan of liquid cooling.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    I own too many laptops: A Dell touch screen with Windows 11 and 6 others (not counting the other four laptops I bought for this household.) Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
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