Having to Upgrade my PC

bobkn · Oct 28, 2024

spapakons said:
The Technician should be more kind since he was novice, not expert, plus more importantly, he was the Client. Nowadays a bad Google comment (feedback) or even worse a bad comment in trading platforms such as the Greek www.skroutz.gr where we compare prices, can do real damage to a shop.

Sympathy and kindness are usually recommended in all things, completely aside from offending a customer.

However, it can be difficult to keep a straight face when presented with a really bizarre screwup.

p5200 · Oct 28, 2024

I'm thinking about upgrading one of my builds. I'm waiting to see what's available for Black Friday sales!

jaylob4 · Oct 28, 2024

Ghot said:
We have the advantage of NOT having to worry about the outcome.

It's always more stressful, when you're working on YOUR computer.

Also... I've been using ASUS motherboards for over 20 years. I "knew" where the USB 3.x connector was.

From my bookmarks...

View attachment 114434

I do feel stupid but I really did look, the reason I didn't see it was there was a long drive caddy that had covered it, sorted now and cable connected----but I still feel stupid.

Ghot · Oct 28, 2024

jaylob4 said:
I do feel stupid but I really did look, the reason I didn't see it was there was a long drive caddy that had covered it, sorted now and cable connected----but I still feel stupid.

Always best to refer to the motherboard manual.
ASUS especially, always has a pic of the motherboard, and pointers to the various items of interest.

And don't feel stupid.

Stupid is blindly wading ahead. Smart is asking questions.

Dannydet · Oct 28, 2024

Rufus would have saved you the time, money and headache

jaylob4 · Oct 28, 2024

Ghot said:
Yes... he can use two "four pin" connectors to feed the eight pin motherboard CPU power connector.

Those 4 pin connectors are "keyed". So is the 8 pin motherboard connector.
Use an LED flashlight to look carefully at them.
Make sure you have them in... properly.

Here you can see the different "shapes" of the connector holes.
This is how these connectors are "keyed".

View attachment 114438

Hate questioning experts or Gurus, they have a habit of being right.

However I'm not sure I can, see images.

One 4 pin connector to the old board, the new board 8 pin EPS.

Both 4 pin connectors have catches on them so I couldn't fit them on to the 8pin.

I had thought of cutting the catches off, trying that but I ain't that brave and not knowing if it was a smart move.

If I'm being told I can and do no harm I will, meanwhile I have ordered an ATX to EPS converter cable.

Ghot · Oct 28, 2024

jaylob4 said:
Hate questioning experts or Gurus, they have a habit of being right.

However I'm not sure I can, see images.

One 4 pin connector to the old board, the new board 8 pin EPS.

Both 4 pin connectors have catches on them so I couldn't fit them on to the 8pin.

I had thought of cutting the catches off, trying that but I ain't that brave and not knowing if it was a smart move.

If I'm being told I can and do no harm I will, meanwhile I have ordered an ATX to EPS converter cable.

The "clips" probably go on the 12V side in the pic below.

But the different shaped "pins" need to match up too.
Matching up the pin shapes is more important than the clips.

As someone mentioned earlier... you should probably just get a decent power supply. ^^
It seems the prices on them went up a bit.
Expect to pay about $100 for a good 650W power supply.

Something like this...

SeaSonic FOCUS Plus 650 Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (SSR-650FX) - PCPartPicker

SeaSonic FOCUS Plus 650 Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (SSR-650FX)

pcpartpicker.com

You can change the country at top right, if necessary.

If money is really tight, maybe this...

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Rxprxr/seasonic-s12iii-650-w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-ssr-650gb3

jaylob4 · Oct 28, 2024

Dannydet said:
Rufus would have saved you the time, money and headache

But he weren't around on a Sunday when I needed him.

jaylob4 · Oct 28, 2024

SIW2 said:
He did according to the linked thread. Mobo £90, ram £30, cpu £80

mobo was on special offer at that time.

amd have just released a couple more cpus for am4.

First thanks for your replies and in no particular order.

You are so right, need an electron microscope to read the lettering on the board.

Although I had to wait for it, I got lucky on the MB, had I ordered in the morning, £105, forgot to do it, evening time, same MB reduced to £88.

Ok I know its not a lot but was on a budget, the total was £205 but I added some thermal paste which in the end I didn't require.

My old MB was an ASUS and while my PC was/is a low powered Home/Office machine, can't fault the board but it had come of age, on board audio had stopped working, back I/O connections were ropey but had MS allowed me to upgrade to Win 11 with my existing I would have chugged along.

So I budgeted, ( no choice ), thinking being anything I got would be more advanced and allow me to upgrade OS.

( my original CPU was a 5050E Athlon and did me just fine for my use for years )

Hopefully this build will see me through to the end of my days and more importantly keep me connected to the world out there, kids/GKs.

But I have and continue to receive such great help on my threads and this site, not sure I could have done it otherwise.

You get older, where once I steamed ahead, now on somethings I need my hand held.

SIW2 · Oct 28, 2024

Both 4 pin connectors have catches on them

That is normal

one plugged in

both plugged in

there is somtimes a minscule plastic ridgey thing on each of the 4 pins so they can grip together which allegedly makes it easier to insert both at the same time.

If they are not already joined by that ridgey thing, I just put them in separately cant be bothered fiddling.

bobkn · Oct 28, 2024

SIW2 said:
That is normal

one plugged in

View attachment 114459

both plugged in

View attachment 114460

there is somtimes a minscule plastic ridgey thing on each of the 4 pins so they can grip together which allegedly makes it easier to insert both at the same time.

If they are not already joined by that ridgey thing, I just put them in separately cant be bothered fiddling.

Nice clear example. Well done.

I've always had the "ridgey thing".

I've found that it can make inserting the pair a bit of a pain, depending on clearances in the case.

spapakons · Oct 28, 2024

Connecting both 4-pin will improve stability, but the motherboard can work with only the left one connected, no need to connect both if an older PSU has only one.

jaylob4 · Oct 30, 2024

My MB is a TUF GAMING B550-PLUS WIFI II.

As I rebuild with the above and trying hard to keep within my budget I have made some decisions I hadn't factored in.

I added a front 2 port USB 3 hub which is connected to the MB but my PC case came with a standard 2 port USB 2 front panel with a head/micro phone sockets, the latter stopped working a while ago, so will remove and replace it with a further front 2 port USB 3 hub + head/micro phone sockets.

I have been looking and settled on the front panel below, will my new MB accommodate it, I'm assuming I can connect it the same way the old front USB 2 ports were connected?

I have no idea on its quality or reliability but couldn't find anything else that suited my requirement or budget, either via eBay or Ali.

My next question, taking in to account the expansion slots/sockets my MB has and type I would like to fit 4 powered extra USB 3 ports at the back of the PC along with a couple of extra HDMI ports.

Is this achievable and could anyone provide me with links as to what I need to buy and any cables.

I can do without extra HDMI ports but if possible would like to install them.

jaylob4 · Oct 30, 2024

Ghot said:
The "clips" probably go on the 12V side in the pic below.

View attachment 114452

But the different shaped "pins" need to match up too.
Matching up the pin shapes is more important than the clips.

As someone mentioned earlier... you should probably just get a decent power supply. ^^
It seems the prices on them went up a bit.
Expect to pay about $100 for a good 650W power supply.

Something like this...

SeaSonic FOCUS Plus 650 Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (SSR-650FX) - PCPartPicker

SeaSonic FOCUS Plus 650 Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (SSR-650FX)

pcpartpicker.com

You can change the country at top right, if necessary.

If money is really tight, maybe this...

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Rxprxr/seasonic-s12iii-650-w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-ssr-650gb3

Thanks.

If I was to install say a separate graphics card, I would up the power of the PSU and fit any of the above brands but my current Corsair 400w PSU has managed so far, so will stick with it until it needs replacing.

spapakons · Oct 30, 2024

jaylob4 said:
My MB is a TUF GAMING B550-PLUS WIFI II.

As I rebuild with the above and trying hard to keep within my budget I have made some decisions I hadn't factored in.

I added a front 2 port USB 3 hub which is connected to the MB but my PC case came with a standard 2 port USB 2 front panel with a head/micro phone sockets, the latter stopped working a while ago, so will remove and replace it with a further front 2 port USB 3 hub + head/micro phone sockets.

I have been looking and settled on the front panel below, will my new MB accommodate it, I'm assuming I can connect it the same way the old front USB 2 ports were connected?

I have no idea on its quality or reliability but couldn't find anything else that suited my requirement or budget, either via eBay or Ali.

My next question, taking in to account the expansion slots/sockets my MB has and type I would like to fit 4 powered extra USB 3 ports at the back of the PC along with a couple of extra HDMI ports.

Is this achievable and could anyone provide me with links as to what I need to buy and any cables.

I can do without extra HDMI ports but if possible would like to install them.

The front panel should work perfectly. It needs a 2.5" bay which means you put it in the place of the floppy disk drive on an old tower. New towers without 2.5" bays need a 3.5" to 2.5" adapter to install it where a DVD-RW drive would be. For adding back USB ports there was a special USB 2.0 cable that connected to the motherboard USB 2.0 pins and provided a back card-like metal (bracket) with two or four USB 2.0 ports that was screwed at the back of the tower. Search for USB 3.0 bracket to use the motherboard USB 3.0 pins. You can also buy USB 3.0 to HDMI adapters to add one or more monitors.

Ghot · Oct 30, 2024

jaylob4 said:
Thanks.

If I was to install say a separate graphics card, I would up the power of the PSU and fit any of the above brands but my current Corsair 400w PSU has managed so far, so will stick with it until it needs replacing.

The 650w Seasonic Gold should power most mid range (under $600) vid cards.

spapakons · Oct 30, 2024

For a mid range graphics card with one 6-pin power his current PSU might be sufficient. He can try, if the computer freezes or has difficulty identifying the disks and booting, he needs something more powerful. Otherwise he can postpone buying a new PSU.

bobkn · Oct 30, 2024

spapakons said:
The front panel should work perfectly. It needs a 2.5" bay which means you put it in the place of the floppy disk drive on an old tower. New towers without 2.5" bays need a 3.5" to 2.5" adapter to install it where a DVD-RW drive would be. For adding back USB ports there was a special USB 2.0 cable that connected to the motherboard USB 2.0 pins and provided a back card-like metal (bracket) with two or four USB 2.0 ports that was screwed at the back of the tower. Search for USB 3.0 bracket to use the motherboard USB 3.0 pins. You can also buy USB 3.0 to HDMI adapters to add one or more monitors.

I'm unfamiliar with 2.5" external bays.

The ones I recall are 3.5" (for floppy drives) and 5 1/4" (for optical drives). It has been a while since I bought a case with any front slots.

I've never used a USB to HDMI adapter. USB 3.0 is limited to a nominal 5Gbps. That's good enough for HDMI formats through 1.2 (1600 X 1200 @ 60Hz.)

edit, later: fixed a typo.

SIW2 · Oct 30, 2024

The OP can use the displayport

spapakons · Oct 30, 2024

bobkn said:
I'm unfamiliar with 2.5" external bays.

The ones I recall are 3.5" (for floppy drives) and 5 1/4" (for optical drives). It has been a while since I bought a case with any front slots.

I've never used a USB to HDMI adapter. USB 3.0 is limited to a nominal 5Gbps. That's good enough for HDMI formats through 1.2 (16000 X 1200 @ 60Hz.)

My bad! I confused the sizes, you are right, the "small" one is 3.5" and the "large" one is 5.25". Thanks for clarifying.

I'm talking about this adapter that allows you to connect an additional monitor to your computer:

Amazon.com

Of course for a graphics card with two or three outputs, all you need is the appropriate adapter, such as DP to HDMI or DVI to HDMI, you don't need a USB 3.0 to HDMI adapter.

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