Solved XCopy Woes, or Not?


Z E Year 2525

Active member
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Location
Washington, the "Evergreen" State
OS
Windows 11 Pro 24H2 (Build 26100.2033)
I've been using a WD Blue 500GB HDD as a working drive instead of an SSD to temporarily hold files and downloads until I either discard them or file them away somewhere else. This way I don't prematurely end the life of an SSD with the heavy write actions.

I recently found a WD Black 1TB HDD in a bunch of my spare PC stuff. CrystalDiskInfo shows power on count at 2750 and total power on hours at 22504. Black is better quality than Blue, it's twice the capacity, and has more life available to it. So I had an idea to give it a whirl and replace the WD Blue because the Blue, even though newer, has nearly triple the power counts that the WD Black does.

In an elevated command prompt I used XCopy with switch options /e (any folder, even if it's empty), /c (continue to copy even if an error occurs), and /h (include hidden files and folders). I didn't include the /r swtich (overwrite read only files) because I had just used diskpart to clean the WD Black HDD and convert it to GPT before quick formattaing it into a single simple NTFS volume. I left the system-generate partitions alone, of course.

Now here is my issue: All the freshly copied files and folders open without issue, EXCEPT every shortcul link (.lnk) gives a security warning, even if I create a new link on the spot. It doesn't matter if the link is Internet-based or simply points to another file or program on the same disk or another disk in the system. The gist of the seecurity warning is about "While files from the Internet can be useful, this file type can potentially harm your computer. If you do not trust this source, do not open the software." Along with pertient link type and source information, I am given the option to Open or cancel. This WD Black drive is the only drive that is presenting this issue. I checked security permissions on the drive, and I see no issue there. I ran the icacls X:\ /reset /t /c /l elevated command where X is the WD Black HDD to no effect. I don't know what else to try at this point.

Ideas? Thanks!
 
Windows Build/Version
Windows 11 Pro 24H2 (Build 26100.3323)

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2 (Build 26100.2033)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY: Custom-Built Frankenstein
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-8700 CPU 6 Core 12 Threads 3.20GHz
    Motherboard
    Asus TUF Z370-Pro Gaming Rev 1.xx
    Memory
    Corsair Vengeance 32 GB DDR 4 2733 (Faster than PC 2666) Dual Channel Mode
    Graphics Card(s)
    MSI Ventus NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 4K UHD UN65MU8000 (65" Smart TV)
    Screen Resolution
    3840 x 2160
    Hard Drives
    OS Drive: WD Black SN850X NVMe 3D NAND 2TB M.2 2280 PCIe SSD; Storage Drives: WD Red Pro NAS 20TB 7200 RPM SATA-III 6 Gb/s HDD + Seagate Exos X20 20TB 7200 RPM SATA-III 6Gb/s HDD + Seagate 4TB 5400 RPM SCSI USB 3.1 HDD + Seagate Skyhawk 2TB 7200 RPM SATA-III 6 Gb/s Hybrid SSHD + WD Black Performance NVMe 512GB M.2 2280 PCIe SSD (This one is set up to run Ubuntu 24.04 LTS in non-dual boot mode, so it is completely segregated from Windows 11's Boot Manager.)
    PSU
    Corsair HX-1200i (1.2 KW) 80 Plus Platinum
    Case
    Corsair Vengeance Series C70 Steel ATX Mid Tower - essentially a functional Faraday cage!
    Cooling
    Corsair AIO HX100 RGB Elite with upgraded, silent 24mm cooling fans
    Keyboard
    Logitech K360 Mini Wireless Keyboard/Mouse Combo
    Internet Speed
    >940 Mbp/s Down and >115 Mbp/s Up
    Browser
    Brave (64-bit) for its low profile and resource usage / Firefox (64-bit) (default) for YouTube and other helpful extensions / MS Edge (only because some gov't sites don't play well with other browsers and Google Chrome may as well be a virus because you can't completely get rid of non-Enterprise versions of it without major registry surgery once installed)
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Sony STR-AZ1000ES 8-channel A/V Receiver w/ Atmos Speakers:
    Jamo S 803 (Front L/R) 57-26 kHz 80W RMS
    Jamo Concert Series C9 CEN II (Center) 55-24 kHz 50W RMS
    Jamo S 8 ATM (Front L/R Height) 31.5-24 kHz 140W RMS
    Jamo S 801 (Rear L/R Surround) 76-26 kHz 60W RMS
    Klipsch Reference RP-1000SW (Subwoofer 1) 19-131 Hz 300W RMS
    SVS PB-1000 (Subwoofer 2) 19-270 Hz 300W RMS
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Home 24H2 (Build 26100.1822)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY: Custom-Built Frankenstein
    CPU
    HexaCore Intel i5-9600KF 6 Core 4300 MHz
    Motherboard
    Asus TUF Z370-Plus Gaming
    Memory
    Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR4-2133 Dual Channel Mode
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 (Old but faithful)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell 24" P2419H HD Monitor
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    OS: Intel 512GB M.2 SSD; Data: WD Black 1TB 7200 RPM SATA-III 6 Gb/s HDD + WD Blue 512GB 7200 RPM SATA-III 6Gb/s HDD
    PSU
    Corsair HX-1100i (1.1 KW) PSU
    Case
    Beats me - it's an early (2015/16) gamer ATX mid-size tower with a see-through glass side.
    Cooling
    Corsair AIO HX100 RGB Elite
    Mouse
    Acer Generic Wireless
    Keyboard
    Bean Generic full-sized Wireless
    Internet Speed
    >940 Mbp/s Down and >115 Mbp/s Up
    Browser
    Firefox (64-bit) (default) / MS Edge
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
    Other Info
    My first Intel build from 2015 that has morphed into its present Frankenstein state. Still runs! Needs a new M.2 SSD, though, to be more useful than it already is. It's set up in the guest bedroom for our infrequent overnight visitors' use. I also use it in a VMware environment to try out new software before I load it onto my main PC, or to run applications that consume a lot of time and resources I don't want my main PC to interrupt while I'm busy with something else.
Check the shortcut properties to see if the files are not blocked.

1-Right-click on one of the shortcuts and click on properties
2-Click on the "General" tab
3-Then check if there is a security warning "This file came from another computer and might blocked to help protect this computer"
4-If have the security warning, check the option "Unblock" then click on Apply and OK to save the change
5-Then check if you can open the file without the security warning. If this procedure works, you will need to repeat for the other shortcuts
Image
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro Version 23H2 (22631.4460)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home Built
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 5 2600
    Motherboard
    MSI B450 Tomahawk Max (MS-7C02)
    Memory
    Corsair 32 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Asus GeForce GTX 1660 Super 6GB
    Sound Card
    Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG IPS Full HD 27 (x2)
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    NVMe XPG Spectrix S40G - 1 TB
    PSU
    CX-M Series CX750M — 750 Watt 80 PLUS Bronze Semi Modular ATX PSU
    Case
    Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 High Airflow ATX Cube Case
    Cooling
    CORSAIR Hydro Series H60 AIO Liquid CPU Cooler
    Keyboard
    MSI Gaming Interceptor DS4200
    Mouse
    Corsair Dark Core RGB Pro Wireless Gaming Mouse
    Internet Speed
    1 GB
    Browser
    Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
I recently found a WD Black 1TB HDD in a bunch of my spare PC stuff. CrystalDiskInfo shows power on count at 2750 and total power on hours at 22504. Black is better quality than Blue
I have one for a spare, too. I tested it and can't find SMART problems. No bad sectors found. I got it in the very-late-2010s, IIRC.
I also have a 500 GB Black and no problems found in tests, either. If there are no errors, just lots of power on time, then I would say, go for it.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro x64 23H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    Ryzen 9 5900X
    Motherboard
    ASRock B550 PG Velocita (UEFI-BIOS P3.40)
    Memory
    32 GB G.Skill F4-3200C16D-32GVR
    Graphics Card(s)
    Sparkle Titan Arc A770 16 GB
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Alienware AW3423DWF OLED ultrawide
    Hard Drives
    Western Digital Black SN850 1 TB NVMe SSD
    PSU
    eVGA Supernova 750 G3
    Case
    Corsair 275R
    Internet Speed
    VTel FTTH 1 Gb down and 1 Gb up
  • Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    Ryzen 7 5800X3D
    Motherboard
    Asus ROG Strix B550-F Gaming (UEFI-BIOS version 3607)
    Memory
    32 GB (2x16 GB G.Skill TridentZ Neo)
    Graphics card(s)
    Sapphire Nitro+ Radeon RX 6750 XT
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 Pro 512 GB NVMe SSD
    PSU
    eVGA Supernova 650 GQ
    Case
    Fractal Focus G
Here is what AI says about that:

The warning you're seeing is a common security message that appears when you're transferring files, especially executable files or software, from the internet to your computer or external storage devices like a USB HDD. Here are some key points to consider regarding this warning:

1. **File Types**: Certain file types, such as .exe, .bat, .cmd, .scr, and others, can execute code on your computer. These types of files are often flagged because they can potentially contain malware or harmful software.

2. **Source Trustworthiness**: Always ensure that the source of the file is trustworthy. If you downloaded the file from an unknown or suspicious website, it's best to avoid opening it.

3. **Antivirus Software**: Make sure you have up-to-date antivirus software installed on your computer. This software can help scan files for potential threats before you open them.

4. **File Scanning**: Before transferring files to your USB HDD, consider scanning them with your antivirus software. Many antivirus programs allow you to right-click on a file and select an option to scan it.

5. **Backup Important Data**: Always keep backups of important data on your USB HDD or other storage devices. This way, if you accidentally transfer a harmful file, you can restore your data.

6. **Regular Updates**: Keep your operating system and software updated to protect against vulnerabilities that malware might exploit.

If you have any doubts about a file, it's better to err on the side of caution and not open it.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 64 bit 24H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Gigabyte Z390 UD
    CPU
    Intel Core i7 77000 3.60
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte Z390 UD
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    nVidia GEForce RTX 2060 Super
    Sound Card
    onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Two 27" Dell 4K monitors
    Screen Resolution
    3840 x 2160
    Hard Drives
    M.2 NVME SSD, 500 GB; Two 2TB Mechanical HDD's
    PSU
    850w PSU
    Case
    Cyberpower PC
    Cooling
    Water cooled
    Keyboard
    Backlit Cyberpower gamiong keyboard
    Mouse
    Backlit Cyberpower gaming mouse
    Internet Speed
    1 GB mbps
    Browser
    Brave
    Antivirus
    Windows Security
Folks, thanks for the info. Sorry for the late response, but I'm building a new Cyberdyne Systems Skynet PC to replace my 9-year old primary PC, which was down for a couple days to cannibalize parts. I'm waiting on a secondary ATX 12-volt PSU-to-motherboard power cable. This new LGA-1851 board requires two cables instead of only the one that the LGA-1700 board needed. I can't wait to fire up this new Core Ultra 9 285K to see how it performs with all the new supporting components.

I will keep psychocyr's post for future reference in case I ever run across this situation again. I work with Excel a lot and see a similar issue when copying cells from one spreadsheet to another, and then I have to break the unnecessary links. That usually happens when I'm working with protected sheets and forget to disable protection when copying between the two workbooks.

Anyway, the NVIDIA App informed me of a new Studio update yesterday The mystery of how this issue occurred in the first place will continue to elude me. It disappeared after I installed the new RTX 4070 Ti Super update. FM (not Frequency Modulation, but Frickin' Magic), I guess. It's possible that this issue occurred because I performed the XCopy task from the WD Blue HDD in my secondary PC before transferring the WD Black HDD to my primary PC. Along with a bunch of MK4 videos, I had a backup copy of my %USERPROFILE% system folders (Desktop, Downloads, Documents, Music, Pictures, and Videos) on the WD Blue HDD. I don't keep user's system folders on my OS SSD - I keep them in an alternate location on a HDD instead to help reduce premature SSD multi-write burnout.

I'm marking this as solved just to end this thread. I'm really curious, though, as to why this happened in the first place.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2 (Build 26100.2033)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY: Custom-Built Frankenstein
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-8700 CPU 6 Core 12 Threads 3.20GHz
    Motherboard
    Asus TUF Z370-Pro Gaming Rev 1.xx
    Memory
    Corsair Vengeance 32 GB DDR 4 2733 (Faster than PC 2666) Dual Channel Mode
    Graphics Card(s)
    MSI Ventus NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 4K UHD UN65MU8000 (65" Smart TV)
    Screen Resolution
    3840 x 2160
    Hard Drives
    OS Drive: WD Black SN850X NVMe 3D NAND 2TB M.2 2280 PCIe SSD; Storage Drives: WD Red Pro NAS 20TB 7200 RPM SATA-III 6 Gb/s HDD + Seagate Exos X20 20TB 7200 RPM SATA-III 6Gb/s HDD + Seagate 4TB 5400 RPM SCSI USB 3.1 HDD + Seagate Skyhawk 2TB 7200 RPM SATA-III 6 Gb/s Hybrid SSHD + WD Black Performance NVMe 512GB M.2 2280 PCIe SSD (This one is set up to run Ubuntu 24.04 LTS in non-dual boot mode, so it is completely segregated from Windows 11's Boot Manager.)
    PSU
    Corsair HX-1200i (1.2 KW) 80 Plus Platinum
    Case
    Corsair Vengeance Series C70 Steel ATX Mid Tower - essentially a functional Faraday cage!
    Cooling
    Corsair AIO HX100 RGB Elite with upgraded, silent 24mm cooling fans
    Keyboard
    Logitech K360 Mini Wireless Keyboard/Mouse Combo
    Internet Speed
    >940 Mbp/s Down and >115 Mbp/s Up
    Browser
    Brave (64-bit) for its low profile and resource usage / Firefox (64-bit) (default) for YouTube and other helpful extensions / MS Edge (only because some gov't sites don't play well with other browsers and Google Chrome may as well be a virus because you can't completely get rid of non-Enterprise versions of it without major registry surgery once installed)
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Sony STR-AZ1000ES 8-channel A/V Receiver w/ Atmos Speakers:
    Jamo S 803 (Front L/R) 57-26 kHz 80W RMS
    Jamo Concert Series C9 CEN II (Center) 55-24 kHz 50W RMS
    Jamo S 8 ATM (Front L/R Height) 31.5-24 kHz 140W RMS
    Jamo S 801 (Rear L/R Surround) 76-26 kHz 60W RMS
    Klipsch Reference RP-1000SW (Subwoofer 1) 19-131 Hz 300W RMS
    SVS PB-1000 (Subwoofer 2) 19-270 Hz 300W RMS
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Home 24H2 (Build 26100.1822)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY: Custom-Built Frankenstein
    CPU
    HexaCore Intel i5-9600KF 6 Core 4300 MHz
    Motherboard
    Asus TUF Z370-Plus Gaming
    Memory
    Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR4-2133 Dual Channel Mode
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 (Old but faithful)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell 24" P2419H HD Monitor
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    OS: Intel 512GB M.2 SSD; Data: WD Black 1TB 7200 RPM SATA-III 6 Gb/s HDD + WD Blue 512GB 7200 RPM SATA-III 6Gb/s HDD
    PSU
    Corsair HX-1100i (1.1 KW) PSU
    Case
    Beats me - it's an early (2015/16) gamer ATX mid-size tower with a see-through glass side.
    Cooling
    Corsair AIO HX100 RGB Elite
    Mouse
    Acer Generic Wireless
    Keyboard
    Bean Generic full-sized Wireless
    Internet Speed
    >940 Mbp/s Down and >115 Mbp/s Up
    Browser
    Firefox (64-bit) (default) / MS Edge
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
    Other Info
    My first Intel build from 2015 that has morphed into its present Frankenstein state. Still runs! Needs a new M.2 SSD, though, to be more useful than it already is. It's set up in the guest bedroom for our infrequent overnight visitors' use. I also use it in a VMware environment to try out new software before I load it onto my main PC, or to run applications that consume a lot of time and resources I don't want my main PC to interrupt while I'm busy with something else.
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