Clean install issues

johnlgalt · Aug 15, 2021

cammac49 said:
I wiped the hard drive in this laptop with shredOS. I used the same USB drive with the lastest build (22000.132) created by UUPDump and the dev build. I followed the tutorial closely. I could not get it to bypass the internet, even with my internet turned off (cable modem unplugged). It picks up neighbors cable internet which is secured of course and the random passwords I typed in obviously would not connect. The alt+F4 key doesn't apparently work when there are wireless internet connections available. I finally as a last resort turned airplane mode on and setup went past that screen. MS apparently has forgotten about OOBE because it was not easy. I probably have erred somehow. And setting up a local acct wasn't exactly easy either. Before I reinstall back on this machine, I will write down notes from the tutorial and retry again. At the moment, I have Win 11 installed. I may redo the USB drive. UUPDump takes a fair while to complete. I will try to download the ISO and just create a USB. And go that route. Thanks for your help. I hope you were successful. Thanks!

Thanks for the wish for success. Mine actually went well on my Desktop, but my laptop is a completely different ballgame. I'm fighting with it to let me enter the UEFI fw settings - because apparently there is a bug if I have both admin pw nad system (power on) pw enabled and one more setting in there it won't use my pw.

I took it completely apart last night to get to the CMOS battery to remove it so I could effect a reset (which it actually didn't reset, so that's actually good, in a way, but bad for me right now) and it let me log in to the fw Settings and I triple verified that I typed in both passwords correctly - but it refuses to let me in to edit jack. The UEFI fw was updated last month after not having been updated for 2+ years, because of the need for 2 different severe vulnerability fixes, but right away this new version has stupidity abounding in it. And when I mean completely disassemble, I mean this:

Dell Latitude E5470 (P62G001) CMOS Battery Removal & Installation

This how-to guide shows the removal and installation of the CMOS Battery on the Latitude E5470. A small Phillips head screwdriver and

www.parts-people.com

It was loads of fun - and seemingly I gotta do it all over again.

0 problems for over 2 years since the last UEFI fw update came out. And even Windows tried to install it and could not, neither could Dell's software, so I had to manually install it from the download from dell's website.

Glad I did this Friday night lol - I still ahve over 12 hours to take it apart and 'reset' it again.

barman58 · Aug 15, 2021

@johnlgalt I found out with my recent issues that removing the Battery is not always enough to trigger a BIOS reset these days, My ASUS MB needs to have the battery removed for 5-10 minutes, and the old Short two reset pins method for 30 Seconds.

The "new" method is on most if not all recent ASUS Motherboards and a few of other brands are using it too

johnlgalt · Aug 15, 2021

Right. But this is a laptop - no pins to short anywhere (that I've seen documented) - and anyway, the process to get to the CMOS battery requires a full disassembly - of everything that connects to the motherboard. So, no real way to short it, either.

I'll probably disassemble it and set it aside for a day or two, maybe until next weekend. Since this is a business class laptop (and I'm using it for business) I also have an extended warranty on it, so I may end up just calling them and spending hours with them on the phone to get them to help me reset it without having to disassemble it all again.

We'll see.

johnlgalt · Aug 16, 2021

cammac49 said:
Yes. Windows 11 Home. The only version I can afford.:)

How've you made out so far with your attempts?

I'm making my own thread because of some idiosyncrasies I've encountered in my clean install.

cammac49 · Aug 16, 2021

I did a reset and let windows download it from the internet connected by ethernet. I got past the section of setting up a MS account by disconnecting the cable. It switched over to a local account. I have been having sound issues since day one with Windows 11. Multiple errors in Reliability History. Drives me crazy. So I decided that the Dev channel and Windows 11 wasn't refined enough for me. I did report those issues in the Hub before this last update. I tried multiple drivers and none of them worked. Sometimes I didn't have any sound. Not really a big deal for computing sake, but sometimes I couldn't get any sound by streaming movies. I'll give it some time and hopefully MS will correct these. I really like Win 11 other than that. I've got almost everything reinstalled back on 10, and it's working like it did before I installed win 11. I also had another issue when I connected the HDMI cable to the laptop...to stream movies on the TV. It crashed the computer, but it came back itself. I reported that issue as well via the Hub. It was corrected with this latest version. Thanks for checking in. I will attempt to find your new post, although I realistically don't think you'd need any of my novice advice.

johnlgalt · Aug 16, 2021

In actuality, it will be HP correcting it, as the drivers should come from them for your machine.

As fro novice advice - never fear, all advice is taken into account.

Can't miss my topic, it's in this same section

BunnyJ · Aug 16, 2021

HP?? they're notorious for dropping support for their hardware. I hope they don't do that in this case..

cammac49 · Aug 16, 2021

I check HP's site frequently just for updated drivers and BIOS updates. I probably won't be able to wait though. Sooner rather than later I'm sure I'll revert back to Win 11. Again thank you. Best regards to you.

cammac49 · Aug 16, 2021

HP?? they're notorious for dropping support for their hardware. I hope they don't do that in this case.

I'm living it. Some days it's rough. ( I could add more, but I guess I won't).

BunnyJ · Aug 16, 2021

cammac49 said:
HP?? they're notorious for dropping support for their hardware. I hope they don't do that in this case.

I'm living it. Some days it's rough. ( I could add more, but I guess I won't).

I had a HP desktop and suddenly support was dropped. I sure hope they changed this policy

Dru2 · Aug 16, 2021

swarfega said:
Is anyone going to do a full clean install when its finally released? I assume that will be possible and its not just a WU upgrade from 10.

Me. And I'm pretty sure there will be ISO's available for a clean install.

Dru2 · Aug 16, 2021

barman58 said:
@johnlgalt I found out with my recent issues that removing the Battery is not always enough to trigger a BIOS reset these days, My ASUS MB needs to have the battery removed for 5-10 minutes, and the old Short two reset pins method for 30 Seconds.

The "new" method is on most if not all recent ASUS Motherboards and a few of other brands are using it too

That's odd ASUS has you go though all of that. On my Gigabyte board (Z390 chipset) simply removing the battery for about 5 minutes completely resets the BIOS. No jumper pins necessary. BTW, the board also has a Clear CMOS button directly on the board.

barman58 · Aug 16, 2021

I've been through the age when just the pin short was required. then the CMOS battery removed for Ten minutes, now on my new(ish ) Asus Prime X570-Pro you need to do both. You basically do remove the battery, leave it for ten minutes. and then short the two pins marked CLRTC which are by the SATA connectors. I can only think there's some type capacitor bridge or something that retains the bit state in the CMOS

What's Next, an incantation over a smoking Soldering Iron :ROFLMAO:

Bree · Aug 16, 2021

cammac49 said:
Yes. Windows 11 Home. The only version I can afford.:)

At the 'lets get you connected' screen a clean install of Pro has an option to skip connecting and will then let you install with a local account. That option is missing in a clean install of Home. However, if you press Alt+F4 you should be able to skip connecting in Home too.

BunnyJ · Aug 16, 2021

barman58 said:
I've been through the age when just the pin short was required. then the CMOS battery removed for Ten minutes, now on my new(ish ) Asus Prime X570-Pro you need to do both. You basically do remove the battery, leave it for ten minutes. and then short the two pins marked CLRTC which are by the SATA connectors. I can only think there's some type capacitor bridge or something that retains the bit state in the CMOS

What's Next, an incantation over a smoking Soldering Iron

And burned finger tips.

barman58 · Aug 16, 2021

Been there, done that, :hot:

funny thing is I still carry a Soldering iron in my go-bag, only difference these days is that it's USB powered. It's low power so doesn't damage modern equipment and will run off a Power bank :)

bobkn · Aug 16, 2021

barman58 said:
I've been through the age when just the pin short was required. then the CMOS battery removed for Ten minutes, now on my new(ish ) Asus Prime X570-Pro you need to do both. You basically do remove the battery, leave it for ten minutes. and then short the two pins marked CLRTC which are by the SATA connectors. I can only think there's some type capacitor bridge or something that retains the bit state in the CMOS

What's Next, an incantation over a smoking Soldering Iron

Odd.

I have an Asus Tuf X570 Gaming Plus. Shorting the pins has worked for me. (2032 cell remained in place.)

My only complaint is that I miss the jumper motherboard manufactures once provided. I can use a screwdriver or paperclip, but the jumper seemed more elegant.

I don't use one at the moment, but high-end boards in the recent past have had pushbuttons the clear the CMOS.

barman58 · Aug 16, 2021

Some modern Motherboards now include a switch on the back panel that means you don't even have to open the case

BunnyJ · Aug 16, 2021

barman58 said:
Been there, done that,

funny thing is I still carry a Soldering iron in my go-bag, only difference these days is that it's USB powered. It's low power so doesn't damage modern equipment and will run off a Power bank :)

Oh lord.. I recall that all to well. Burned my fingers in elections class and soldering stained glass for my mom.

johnlgalt · Aug 16, 2021

bobkn said:
Odd.

I have an Asus Tuf X570 Gaming Plus. Shorting the pins has worked for me. (2032 cell remained in place.)

My only complaint is that I miss the jumper motherboard manufactures once provided. I can use a screwdriver or paperclip, but the jumper seemed more elegant.

I don't use one at the moment, but high-end boards in the recent past have had pushbuttons the clear the CMOS.

Yeah, I got a small section on my toolbox with nothing but a couple dozen of those jumpers in various sizes for uses like this. I still prefer to use them - I may accidentally hit a wrong post and fry things, and I don't like frying customers' devices.

barman58 said:
Some modern Motherboards now include a switch on the back panel that means you don't even have to open the case

Yeah. Like mine. I can also flash the UEFI fw from back there with an adjacent button, with the fw on a USB that is inserted in a slot next to that button.

Only need 24 pin power to the mobo to do it, nothing else.

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