Windows 11 Bare Metal Install Freezing

AMD Ryzen 5 3600
MSI B350 motherboard
EVGA GTX 1080ti
Mushkin Element 2 TB SATA SSD

I do have a secondary hard drive, but as I understand it, this shouldn't be a problem as long as I don't accidentally select it when attempting to install, which I haven't done. Additionally, I'm using my BIOS to selectively boot each time I need to switch boot devices, so it's not possible that Windows 11 attempting to install it's boot information on the other drive is causing this. I'm definitely able to boot into the Windows 11 installer, it just goes no further than 33%.

32 GB RAM (A mixture of Dell and Corsair that works together)

This system has been stable on Windows 10 for over a year in this exact hardware configuration(most recently just before I started this attempt to install W11, just a couple days ago now). The only thing's I've changed at the BIOS level are these two settings, which are listed as being necessary for W11 install(I'm aware this is not technically true, but I'm just looking for the easiest way forward, which seemed to be enabling them and doing a fresh install):

TPM 2.0 enabled
Secure Boot enabled

This hard drive has been completely formatted, for a clean install.

Windows 11 Pro Key checks valid at boot into USB installer(I've also tried installing without a product key; selecting Windows 11 Home and Pro different times).

After USB installer runs, after first boot without USB, installation freezes, either at 33%, or if it eventually gets past that, it's freezing at a black screen every boot. Shift+F10 doesn't do anything. Ctrl+Alt+ Delete doesn't do anything.

I've tried this several times, and this continues to happen.

I've tried completely rebuilding the USB installation media from scratch. I even had Rufus check the device for bad blocks(2 pass) just in case.

Most recently, I've also tried rebuilding the USB installation media using the official Windows Media Creation Tool. This latest attempt has been stuck at 33% for several hours(the wheel has stopped spinning, same as before).

Any advice on how to troubleshoot this is welcome and appreciated. I figure my next steps are remove the non-Corsair RAM, the spare hard drive, and possibly also disconnect the video card. I've been trying thus far to get this done without having to disassemble the system.

This system has been stable on Windows 10 for over a year in this exact hardware configuration(most recently just before I started this attempt to install W11, just a couple days ago now).

Click to expand...

What was the original windows build?

Unfortunately, I don't think I have any way of answering this question at this juncture. The drive W10 was on has been deleted/reformatted multiple times now in this attempt.

i believe this may possible be due to a corrupt Windows ISO.
it maybe worthwhile downloading a fresh copy of Windows and re-burning the USB with Rufus checking all the boxes.

best of luck, Steve .

Supposing you are installing as UEFI-GPT and not Legacy-MBR.
You don't need to have secure boot enabled to install Win 11. I suggest you turn it off till you have Win 11 installed and running.
If you have a boot able drive with a boot manager on a EFI partition and if you boot from a Win 11 installation drive to install Win 11 on a clean drive it will install the boot manager on the drive that already has the EFI partition.
If you want a complete independent boot able drives you MUST detach the other boot able drive.

The secondary drive is a storage volume only, and contains no bootable volume/partition. I've now tried the suggestion of installing with Secure Boot Disabled, with no change in the symptom. I also tried using a different USB installation media entirely(rebuilt with Rufus again; with all W11 options checked).

Why you use Rufus?
I suggest you build the USB Win 11 24h2 installation drive using MCT

If you decide to do a clean install using MCT you can use this guide to install as a local account. A method for creating a local account during clean install I have not seen before There are other ways but this one works and is the first one I found. If you want, you can switch to a MS account once you have Windows installed and setup.

My experience is a clean install stops around 33%, your PC requires a specific storage driver added to the image.

One way to check is to install VMware or VirtualBox, and install the exact same ISO inside a VM. If that works and your physical PC doesn't -- it's a driver issue. VM's emulate a generic PC, so Windows should always install in them.